RESUMEN
Purpose: We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MP) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. Methods: An in-silico modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberry-loaded microparticles (MPMB+B) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT) were prepared by spray-drying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MPMB+B and MPMBBT, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and in vitro SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Results: Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. In-vitro SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the in-vivo assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 µg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Conclusion: Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.
